Bird Training
A bird is one of the most intelligent animals you may have as a companion pet. That being the case, you want to ensure that your bird understands who is in charge (you) and how to behave appropriately in social circumstances. Most parrots can never be entirely domesticated, and they always maintain some of their wildness. However, with persistence and patience, you and your bird can live together in the same “nest.”
Keep in mind that some birds have extremely long lifespans, so the lessons you teach now could be the difference between living with a nice, semi-domesticated animal and an unapproachable, uncontrolled flying pest. Here are ten training strategies to help you get started:
10. Be realistic
Your parrot, like you, is a unique individual with a distinct personality and preferences. Some orders will take longer to train than others, and there may be tricks that your bird will simply refuse to perform, no matter how appealing the supplied treat is. And, much like your mind is sharp at times during the day, your bird will be more sensitive to learning and handling.
9. Be prepared
Before you begin any training routine, equip yourself with the proper tools:
- Treats, such as nuts or fruits, that are not part of your bird’s regular meals
- A sturdy perch or dowel that you can hold in your hand
- A small-sized stick or dowel
- A small, light-colored towel
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Bitter apple spray can stop your bird from biting and chewing on inappropriate objects, such as window curtains and furniture.
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Bird harness/leash (choose the size based on the type of bird)
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Pet carrier or travel cage (if you need to travel)
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Pay attention to your bird’s cues and learn to identify them. When your bird understands that there is no reason to be anxious, it will feel safer and more trustworthy. Keep training sessions brief and regular. Ten to fifteen-minute sessions spread out two or three times each day should suffice.
8. Handling your bird
It’s best to start with the basics. Make it comfortable being caressed and held. To maintain your master position, always stand above the bird and never below it. Place your finger on your bird’s lower breast, right above its feet, and encourage it to step onto it with the commands “up” or “step up.” If it obeys, praise it with phrases like “good bird” or anything comparable. Holding the bird too low will cause it to try to acquire higher ground by climbing up your arm, but holding it too high will also result in this. The proper level is approximately chest high.
During the sessions, repeat the stepping-up gestures and verbal orders while holding your bird “ladder”. With your free hand, press your finger against the bird’s lower breast, above its feet, and say, “Step up.” Repeat this multiple times when each hand becomes free, paying attention to the bird’s interest and finishing the session before the bird becomes bored. While holding the bird, use one of your fingers to delicately touch and lift its toes. This will get the bird used to having its toes stroked, making future toe cuttings easier.
To train your bird to return to its perch, repeat the same gestures in reverse. Do not place the bird in the cage or on the perch backward; instead, turn the bird so that it is facing its perch and hold it just below the perch so that it must step up onto the perch, albeit you will use the words “down,” or “step down” this time. When the bird responds to this request, tell it that it is a “good bird.” You might even follow up with a small treat after a successful training session.
If your bird grows into a giant parrot, don’t let it sit on your shoulder. This will reinforce a harmful behavior, which will almost surely result in an injury. Birds, no matter how well-trained, will bite if they are startled, and you never want a startled bird near your face. Small birds typically have smaller and less harmful bites, so bear this in mind.
7. “Polly wants a cracker?”
One of the most enjoyable aspects of owning a parrot is teaching it to “talk”.
Your bird’s ability to speak will be determined by several factors, including how early you start, how frequently you train it, and your bird’s specific capacity or temperament. Otherwise, the procedure is rather straightforward: repetition, repetition, repetition. If you want your bird to repeat a phrase or a song, say or play it several times. However, there is no guarantee that your bird will repeat the words you want it to.
A word of caution about speaking: your bird may choose to repeat statements that are inappropriate in mixed society. Be careful not to use vulgar words around a talking bird. Also, keep in mind that emotional language is particularly attractive to birds. Your bird may mimic your emotions, including laughter, tears, coughing, and sneezing. It may also utilize words from arguments or movies it has seen. While this can be entertaining, your preacher or grandmother may not agree.
6. Going outside and travel
Birds enjoy being outside for obvious reasons, yet even clipped wings are insufficient protection. It is possible to train a bird to go outside on a leash, but this must start early. Place a size-appropriate harness on the bird. Give your bird a treat just after you have successfully harnessed it and taken it outside. In that manner, your bird will look forward to your excursions.
5. Use a biting stick
Teaching your bird what is appropriate to bite from an early age, as well as providing it with lots to chew on, can help keep its beak active. You can use a wooden chopstick or other tiny stick and place it within the bird’s grasp. When it bites the stick, reward it for doing so. The bird will rapidly realize that chewing a stick is a positive thing.
4. Screaming
There is no simple solution to stop shouting. It’s what birds do, especially big birds. Having a cage cover or tiny blanket available to cover the cage may frequently calm the bird down. Music can also be an effective distraction for a screaming bird. But never approach your bird when it screams; otherwise, it will learn that this is an efficient way to win your attention.
3. Towel Training
Getting your bird used to a towel is critical since you will be using it for a variety of purposes, including grooming, administering medication, or treating an injury. You should include towel training in your regular training routines.
Using a small white or light-colored hand towel (bright colors may alarm your bird), allow your bird to step onto the towel, perhaps to eat a small treat that has been laid on the towel. Once the bird has become accustomed to the towel, wrap it around the bird from behind, being careful not to press the towel or your hands against its chest. (Birds must be unfettered at the chest or they will suffocate.) Hold the bird’s sides only to prevent it from squirming out of your hands, and use your other hand to place your middle finger and thumb on either side of its neck, with your index finger resting on top of the head to keep it stable.
2. Discourage biting and aggression
Be aware that birds frequently use their beaks to balance, placing them on the thing they are going to walk on. Do not jump back expecting to be bitten, otherwise your bird may feel scared about stepping on your hand. Birds enjoy tasting things, including your skin, so it may look to gnaw on you, but it is pressing its tongue to your skin. You’ll know the difference.
Additionally, biting should always be avoided. However, rather than screaming or punishing the bird, try to remain calm and in control at all times. Timeouts are also ineffective because you risk unwittingly training your bird to bite when it merely wants to be left alone. Instead, firmly say “no,” place your palm out in front of its face, and make a stop signal.
On the other side, if your bird is acting aggressively – flapping its wings, screeching, or raising itself high (to appear large and dangerous), do not ignore it or stand back; instead, stay close and use gentle words until it calms down. You should also never attempt to hold the bird while it is really enthusiastic.
If your bird bites you, try a puff of air to encourage it to release and repeat the discouraging phrases. Needless to say, there will be no reward following a biting session.
To keep your bird from biting and chewing on furniture, window blinds, and coverings, use a veterinary-approved deterrent known as bitter apple spray. Spray this on the objects you want your bird to keep its beak away from.
1. Giving treats and feeding your baby bird
Treats should not be provided randomly; they should be reserved for when the bird is doing something to be encouraged. To minimize overfeeding, limit the amount of treats you give your bird. Fruits must be sliced into little pieces before giving to your fledgling bird – or adult bird, for that matter. When your bird has climbed onto your hand or followed a command, start giving it portable goodies while it is still young. Just be careful with how you hold it.
The treat should be held with the tips of your fingers pointing out to the sides, rather than from top to bottom. This is to keep your fingers safe from inadvertent bites, as the bird may mistake your fingernail for a nut and bite into it. You can also hold the goodie with your open fingers. Some items that you can feed a newborn bird are bird seed, pellets, millet seed, thistle seed, freshly washed dark leafy greens (torn into small pieces, of course), berries,, unseasoned scrambled eggs, and unseasoned chicken. Be sure to check with your veterinarian about the specific portions of food to give to your baby bird.
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