Could it be YOU??
Our pet birds are very responsive to how we feel when we approach them. They pick it up if we’re stressed out, nervous, or dissatisfied. The worst we can do is approach them when we’re nervous/stressed. They will feel it, and it will give rise to fear and apprehension. Birds don’t have a lot of moments to THINK and will most probably react with a fast bite.
Another way that we can CAUSE parrots to turn into biters is if we use our hands to punish them. For instance, if we use our hands to shoot them away or, worse still, to throw items in or out of them (to “shut them up” or prevent bad conduct). The next time we want to deal with them after that, they don’t understand whether our hands approach them in a friendly way, or whether we want to punish them or drive them away.
Also, if you just pick them up with your hands/arms to put them back in the cage, they’ll learn to dislike your hands/arms fairly rapidly. Instead of that, I have my pet bird step up on a perch. That being said, in order to avoid them from discouraging the perch, I also use this perch for fun things, like walking around the house and speaking to them BEFORE placing them back in the cage. They’re not going to associate the perch with something bad in this manner. It would serve the same purpose if you pick them up with your hand or arm and walk around the house and do some fun stuff before you put them back in the cage.
Teach them that hands are something good.
The most important thing is to teach your pet that they have nothing to fear from your hands.
It’s just to be used for preening, holding, and offering them treatments. Never use your hands in an adverse context. Once this occurs, whenever your hand approaches your pet, he or she will have to create a fast choice as to whether the aim of this is “good” or “bad.”… In most instances, birds instinctively bite… Always be conscious of your pet’s perception of your hands. Always approach your pet gently with your hands, in a non-threatening way. The more your pet learns to trust you AND your hands, the less probable he or she will be able to bite. As their level of confidence expands, their bite becomes less powerful as well.
Self-defense.
In many cases (particularly in cases of poorly socialized or abused birds),
They may have discovered that hands are something to be afraid of — because individuals might have struck them (or actually hit them) in the past, waved their hands at them in a menacing way, and used their hands to throw stuff at them… Once that occurs, birds are going to associate their hands with something bad. We use our hands to defend ourselves. Birds don’t have hands — they’re using their beaks.
The more scared Or startled they are, The harder they will bite.
Fast motions close to your pet, in specific, are probable to result in painful bites. Birds are prey animals and have learned that predators can approach them at any time — sometimes they may not understand that their “mate” (bonded bird or human) is fast approaching them, and they will bite to fend off a prospective predator.
They don’t like what you are doing.
Even bonded birds will bite — but mostly only to let you know they don’t like what you are doing and their bites are generally gentle and don’t hurt. However, if you ignore this “gentle” warning, her or his bites will progressively become more forceful and painful.
Heed the warning and respect your pet’s personal comfort level and space.
Are you trying to put your parrot back in his cage when he doesn’t want to?
This is a prevalent circumstance that leads to biting … You’re doing something you might need, but it’s not to the liking of your bird.
Turn the act of placing your bird back in his cage into something “good” by offering in the cage his favorite food. Make sure you see your parrot. Give your hand a little treat as you pick up your parrot to put it back in your cage.
Don’t be predictable.
For example, picking up a bird with a stick and then immediately putting him or her back in the cage will cause your pet to stop stepping on the stick as he or she associates with being locked up. Instead, pick up your pet with the stick (or hand), have some fun playing with him or her for a couple of minutes, might want to walk around for a couple of minutes, and finally, show him or her a treat and give it to him or her while putting your pet in the cage.
Innocent playtime and exercise.
Birds use their beaks to climb and hold stuff up as they move around. Usually, these bites are not painful, although they may become painful as you attempt to free your finger from his beak.
Holding your pet gently with your other hand will usually relieve your pet’s beak pressure on your finger as he doesn’t rely exclusively on his beak to keep himself in place. Give your pet a toy or stick to hold on to.
Territorial behavior.
Usually, birds protect their private room. The foundation for this is that their nest site and young people are protected from predators in the wild.
This is an innate behavior and no effort should be made to alter that – but accommodate the wish of your pet to be his personal space’s “master.” This could imply selecting a cage from outside to allow you to alter food and water. Instead of getting your pet out of the cage, either use a stick to assist him or her out the cage or just wait for him or herself to get your pet out of the cage.
Hormonal birds.
Now that is a chapter by itself. If your pet is attacking those that he or she perceives to be a rival for your affection.
